dose anybody take chains off the bike clean in parafin and soak in oil ?
I know these O"ring chains are ment to keep oil in bareing case longer but how are they ment to be cleaned i feel just a spray with can of lube seams a little bit erm well too easy.
i got one of them brush things your ment to run the chain through but frankly its bloomin useless any advice folks
putolene chain cleaner and lube do the job for me, have a scottoiler on the cbf which works really well but they can take awhile to get set just right.
yes get a shaft drive I did, if not do fit a scottoiler it washes the chain as it lubes 24000 miles a chain on a not slowly ridden zzr1100, 3 front +2 rear sprockets per chain, cheaper than trashing a chain after 10000.
dont scott oilers leave a mess all over the back wheel ?
paul ive gone from shaft back to chain im thinking of going back again but it would be cheaper to clean it really
whealey, i'd go with the parafin and toothbrush option for either a x ring or o ring chain. I also used to use silcolene titanium chain lube. I had twenty thou out of a did chain a few years ago. But i've switched to an 'old mans bike' its shaft drive all the way now lol
Weirdoraptor In: Brough, E. Yorks
Posts: 2087
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I usually clean mine with a 1/2" paintbrush and used fork oil (any light oil will do), then after the next short run out i coat it with Castrol chain wax (with the chain hot).
Don't make the mistake of using WD40 to clean it. It's a penetrant and gets past the o-rings and dries the bearings out. I used to do this, and when my chain snapped the insides of it were bone dry and rusty. They cause a lot of damage when they go as well
As others have said, regular cleaning using a small paintbrush and paraffin and the use of a scottoiler.
As Julie says, as long as you've got the scottoiler set correctly, you shouldn't get a lot of mess around the back of the bike. The thing to remember about them is the more flow you have, the cleaner and smoother running your chain will be. However, far too much flow can result in oil on your back tyre, which doesn't really help grip much I've found on left handers.
I've opted for a setting where the chain looks permanently wet, but only just. This creates a little bit of mess around the back, but it easy to clean off. It also means that the chain does start to look dirty after roughly a thousand miles, especially in dusty or dirty conditions, but again the oil and therefore dirt, cleans off very easily with paraffin.
For your info, my chains tend to last around 25k. Which is a little over a year for me!
by my calculations then my chain should last me 8.3 years going by last years milage lol
am i right in saying these things run off the vacume from the carbs or do they just drip feed all the time ?
and how easy to fit are they scale 1 to 10 ?
Yes your right, a small bore tube connects to inlet manifold and lifts valve body in oiler when engine runs. Its just a case of finding a nice tidy run for this tube and the feed tube to chain, I found the double feed best also the large reservoir which goes behind number plate cos it holds the oiler all nice and tidy and lasts for a few thousand miles. Ease of fit [ do you own a monkey]
i fitted the electronic scottoiler.. more money in the 1st place.. but a doddle to fit and set up..
like earlier posts.. i have it set to wet the chain.. just.. then wiping throw off oil off.. easy..
chain showing no sign of wear after 6000 miles.. brill device for sure..
i'll be taking it with me come the time to change bikes.. no pipes/tubes cut at all with the electronic model.. and will fit any bike with no adaptors needed
Buddy if you don't do many miles think whether it is worth the time and cost of fitting an oiler!!!
I use a chain cleaner on the ten. Just spray on and wipe off then relube. Over 17,000 miles on it (from new) and it's still in good nick. The important part is keeping it clean and using a lube that doesn't pick up dirt - and don't use too much lube either!
I have a scottloiler on the nine and am forever adjusting the flow to suit conditions. It's easy to do but only real advantage is not taking any cleaner or lube when on a long trip.
My little 650??? Short commuter trips and only ever lubed it with gear oil and a brush. That takes thirty seconds as I keep it in a jar with a lid on.
Think about the sort of riding and miles you are going to do and pick the best option.
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