That's a good tip northlondon58
"If" you've been lucky enough to get out for nice "DRY" ride
Sadly a rare event so far this summer
"I" wouldn't recommend applying lube to a "wet" chain
I still recommend giving the chain a good clean regularly
BEFORE applying lube
Special brushes and cleaning solution are available now
Which "minimise" the hassle and help to prolong chain life
They are a fraction of the cost of a new chain and sprockets
expense depends on the individual to some people a chain and sprocket kit is very expensive.i try to maintain mine best i can but cant afford to just buy new kit just like that so maintainence is key for me
zzrbabe if your looking for a money saver instead of buying expencive chain cleaner take a fuel can to the garage and get £5.00 diesle put some in an old cake tin and clean your chain with an old paint brush after just dry with old towel then relube.
still say engine oil works a treat......lol Some does get flung off I agree but enough stays put to do the job until next time (assuming thats not a year away) !! an it costs pence.... Any oil is better than no oil....
I also agree cleaning crud off a good idea but be aware using a solvent will prob take the lubricant outa the pins and rollers too, I not convinced that X or O ring chains stay sealed up for long,prob just a marketing gimmick in my opinion....using derv a good compromise and hopefully doesnt affect the little o rings....? A worn out /badly maintained chain is as dangerous as a damaged tyre...scarey at any speed over 30,horrific over 100 and doesnt bear thought at 150+.....
If you clean a chain with diesel it will remove old oil and grease but should not damage any seals. As it leaves a oily residue it is a good base to put chain lube on as long as you have wiped it dry 1st so there is not excessive amounts still on the chain
I get 8 to 9k from a chain but then I am throttle happy, and I use my bike everyday dry/wet/snow/wet it gets lubed once a week and ajusted checked for ajustment every 2 weeks or so and normaly every other day with my toe and a quick lift before I leave.
And I thend to use DID chains its got a renthal kit on at the moment its what it came with but its only 520 gage and I am running through it fast as its a trackday lightwaight jobby.
I was looking tonight for a new kit another £89 for a did gold and sprokets who said motor bikes were cheap :)
Fleebay is the answer :)
and no I dont normaly but the cheapest I can get the same set int he shops is £180 and online about £150 on ebay exact same set £89 brand new boxed everything.
You just have to know what you are looking for before you go otherwise you get lost.
I know what I'm looking for
That IS ebay price cavy
But it's good advice
A good way to "get exactly what you need"
Is to go to a "specialist" supplier to get the "specs" by entering your bike details into their data base
Then search ebay for it
That way you can be sure to get the right ones
If you still are not sure, contact the seller through ebay, with all your bike details and get them to confirm that what you are after is "in stock" and what you are looking for
Good luck everyone, keep those bikes rolling with quality chains at a "fair" price
And don't forget the maintenance
Following on from a conversation with a fellow BMer today
I thought I'd add a final addendum to this thread
For those who don't know ?
Fitting a BIGGER rear sprocket will gear your bike DOWN
This will improve acceleration but lower your overall "top speed"
Fitting a SMALLER rear sprocket will gear your bike UP
Which "technically" raises your "top speed" in "theory"
The reason I use the terms "technically" and "theory" is :
That it depends on the engines capability to "pull" the higher gearing
Gearing "up" an under powered bike will not necessarily improve your top speed, in fact it may well be slower in TOP than the next lower gear !
(3rd,4th or 5th depending how many there are in your gearbox)
This is because the bikes engine is not reaching its maximum output (BHP and torque)
(a lot of modern bikes now have computer "chips" which control all this)
In some instances, bikes can be faster on "top end" after lowering the gearing ?
This is due to some bikes having "top" gear set so high to enable a higher cruising speed at lower revs to save engine wear and tear and improve fuel economy
I hope this clears up any "misconceptions" which some of you may have
Oh, and fitting different tyres can alter the gearing too
Larger tyres gear up the bike
Smaller tyres gear it down
(it's about the "overall circumference" of the tyre and the distance it travels along the ground during "one complete revolution")
(and did you know that a certain amount of "slip" is necessary to get "maximum traction" ?)
[ 100% grip will just stick the tyre to the road ! ]
It used to be a ratio of 85% grip 15% slip but modern compounds may well work on a different ratio now ?
So, in "theory" identical bikes with "worn down" tyres may well be slower than bikes with "new" tyres
"Assuming" all else to be equal ?
But then we all know that some bikes, for whatever reason are just a bit quicker and some never seem to be quite as they should be !
Some of this could be put down to inefficient transmission, wrong tyre pressures or "old" "tired" engine oil !
Talking about sprocket size meany years ago I had a triumph tiger cub with a 52 tooth rear sprocket. would only do about 45 mph but would go up-over or though anything you put in its way and great for long distance riding on the back wheel. It did chuck me off the back a few times lol
That's the great thing about "trials" bikes JP
They'll "climb a house side" as we used to say
Back sprocket "like a dustbin lid"
(for those who remember what one of those is )
I once saw a BSA Bantam,
[and I'm NOT exaggerating]
With a back sprocket "almost" as big as the back wheel
You could only see about 3 inches of spokes past it
It was a "circus" bike though
But on a more serious note, that story of yours
Just reinforces my point about BIGGER sprockets gearing the bike down as a "Cub" was always good for 60-65 mph on "standard" gearing
Exactly emzed, but not everybody has the same idea as us, some don't have the cash either. If its ridden hard you need the best you can afford, if its nice and steady you'd get away with a cheaper good one.
Nce night ride post.
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