I may have water in recently brought petrol. Bike began running rough within a couple of miles of refuelling, loss of power all was okay before refuellingBeen told by dealer to try dry fuel first as its a lot cheaper option has anyone used this before if so did it work and how much do you use as all I can find is amounts to use in a car.
If you have a fuel injected bike I would spend a the extra few quid and drain and refuel the tank.
The fuel pumps and injectors arnt as robust as the old Sokol carb set up and need to be lubricated properly by the fuel. Water will kill it in the end especially is its left to sit in there for a while.
I ve drained tank refilled with fresh petrol ,new air filter ,plugs but still wont start unless i spray GT85 whilest trying to start in air box, but wont run more than a few seconds if you take finger off starter button .When it does go it sounds like a bag of crap at first then runs normal but dies as soon as you touch the throttle Any ideas
What bike, year, model, is it? Is it got carbs or fuel injection? Don't keep spraying into the air box as you will damage the pistons / rings. The crap running at first is the spray being use up and the pistons are slapping the side of the bores.
When you say you changed the air filter, do you mean that or was it a slip of the fingers? XK suggested you change the fuel filter, and Id go along with that.
Bike is a Bandit 650sa k7 2007 with 58,000 on clock we have had fuel pump out to dry tank off and that seems ok and petrol is getting through, its a fuel injection system I put new air filter in ,there no fault code F1 on clocks or any other warning lights When trying to get home the bike may have gone into limp home mode .at first i thought fuel was the main problem but it maybe something else now
Don't use an oil based lubricant like gt85 as an easy start as it will kill your lambder sensors. If you have a hot wire MAF it will also kill that too.
These can be cleaned out with the correct carb cleaner. But do not squirt it through the air box. A strip down will be needed.
Tbh the new set of symptoms you suggest are closer to a sensor going down than water in your fuel.
I'd be pointing my finger more towards your TPS, lambder, or crank sensors.
I also remember that triumphs have a switch attached to the the throttle at the the throttle bodies. If it's not set up correctly the bike will not run correctly. It's on the older stuff but worth checking for loose connectors maybe.
I have to agree with Stuie sensor problems and or ignition problem not all problems will have a fault code. I may be wrong but I do not think it will have a hot wire MAF. My 1250 has a MAP sensor so the 650 is likely to be the same. I have downloaded a service manual for free for the 1250 so you should be able to find one on line. You will need a multi-meter and some one who can use it.
Yup I am a little out of date on Trumpets. But bikes of the same generation will run the same way, or at least would normally would do. So bugs will be more up todaye than me on what type feeling and ignition system/method your trumpet runs.
Some one who knows how to use a multimeter or oscilloscope will be able to test sensors.
Talking to a trumph mechanic might even by pass all this trouble ad there may be a generic fault that's shouting out that they see regularly.
First simple test you need to do is attempt to start the cold engine. Then remove the spark plugs if the tip is very wet with petrol its likely to be ignition if its almost or completely dry then its fuel injection related. As you said it try's to fire then not likely ignition. The fuel injection system has temperature sensors which greatly increase fuel injection to start a cold engine. If the ECU is not being given the correct temperature from the sensor there will not be sufficient injection for a cold start. This is one thing that could be happening there are many others.
Its possible you've dragged water in to the injectors. These have a very fine filter screen in the top where the fuel rail connection is. If you remove each injector you can tap any crud and water out, squirt of carb cleaner and reassemble. Also,when you turn the ignition on, listen to the pump, you should hear it priming the system, should take around 5 seconds to prime, you should also hear the pitch change as the fuel pressure rises. Try priming several times before attempting to start,if that improves the situation your pump may be on the way out.
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