Hello all who read this!
Does anyone know if its possible to remove a steering stem from the bottom yoke by heating the lot up first, then carefully knocking out with bloke of wood and big hammer???
any advise will be greatfully received
cheers 2wheely
I got a smile on my face when i saw your topic heading 2wheel , i thought it was gonna be a medical question lol ...but i would leave this for the likes of Nitro and Em to reply .
Are you sure its pressed in 2W ?
If it is it can be pressed back out
It wont have been done with any heat involved at the factory, it will be an "interference" fit, it may even be on a taper
Check out your local engineering shop, they will have a press (it will require several tons of pressure to remove it)
Heating it up will probably aneal it and then it will be soft and likely to distort under road going loadings (braking, cornering)
Check out the specialist forums for the make and model, you are quite likely to get specific advice
Only use heat if it is a pressed steel yoke as used on some of the smaller commuter bikes. Blowlamps, torches and alloy yokes do not make a happy combination. If it is an alloy forging most of its strength comes from work hardening and it will anneal very quickly at anything above 290 degrees. Heat treatable alloy castings are even worse as they are very sensitive to cooling rate and anything above 25 degrees a minute will result in embrittlement. Taking a blowlamp to HT alloys gives localised heating which may be enough to soften thicker sections while embrittling thin sections which cool rapidly as the heavier sections act as a heat sink. On the typical Jap bottom yoke you can find the strengthening ribs becoming pot hard while the main plate section becomes soft enough to bend easily. Not something you want to trust your life to really.
I'd go with Emzeds suggestion and find someone who knows the particular bike.
Thank-you all, yep im sure its pressed in!
No sign of pinch bolt/s legz.
Well this is all part of the fun when creating your own bike, well thats what i keep telling bmyself anyway, lol
do you reckon i could drive my truck over it? lol
Cheers people i will get back to you all on my progress
If the yoke is alloy then the stem may be pegged into it as well ?
(at 90 degrees to the stem)
In which case you will need to drive that out too, or maybe even drill it out.
Be careful to drill straight and not wander off line, best done in a pillar drill with sharp drills and 1 size at a time starting small and finishing exactly on size or just under.
Best of luck
Keep us posted with your progress.
Help! i always need help ian, lol.
Cheers mate, just need to find someone who has a press or its £400 for slab/billet yokes which include the stem?
Hummmm
hi
wot bike is it off?,wot bike is it goin on?
have u tried flea baY for part
as others have said on here don,t mess with suspension,too dodgy
good luck
Hello fj, well the stem is in an 1999 R1 yoke and need to put in a xjr sten in its place, the R1 one is 15mm too short, Bumma.
Got all the bits of flea bay, just need some engineering assistance with the finer points.
Thanks for your input fj
Turdo cheap enough scrap yards are full of them take one off a car off a larger capacity than the bike roughly 25% bigger should do the trick (bikes spin up faster so will drive a small turbo faster than an eqivalent car engine!) the real cost will come in the plumbing work.
There was a turbo kit for a superdream back in the 80's but I never actually saw one on a bike. But rumour had it the turbo was the same size as the mg metro one??? Which was a 1300cc
Cheers hull, i will look into that one. Sounds like a great plan. Think the plumbing work could be done be Big CC Racing, but as you say will require some serious wedge to see it through
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